We decided to leave on Thursday. It was a short trip. We
hung around the house for a while, then went to the corner service station for
fuel. There we met a couple of Florida’s less-friendly natives. Then to the
Publix to get a few supplies and find a UPS for Jean to send a fax. That done,
we put the campground that Jean and Anna had gone to the day before (and
reserved a space) into the GPS. Anna had found the place, but it was part of a
day of driving around; we didn’t know how to get there from the Publix, and so
the GPS. It was surprisingly empty, though the women had been told that it
would be full by the weekend.
This was our problem. We were still in Florida’s high
season, and it may or may not have been Spring Break time (we never know when
that occurs). With the weekend coming up, it was going to be difficult to find
space at a campground. Some people, like my brother, have all the campgrounds
reserved (and often paid for) months in advance. But we don’t follow any
schedule, and often change plans along the way. This could be a problem in the
coming days.
The campground was a Corps of Engineers campground
(always very nice), so it was alongside a lock on the canal from the St. Lucie
River to Lake Okeechobee. Our site was right along the canal.
Friday we needed to head on, but we waited to watch a
couple of yachts lock through.
It was a mostly sunny day, with some wind and a few
clouds, so we decided to go back to Hobe Sound beach. That was one I was
convinced we could easily find. Along the way, we stopped at a McDonald’s for a
late breakfast. Parked next door was a shiny, new Model T. It was, as far as I
could tell, a kit car. It looked, and sounded, authentic to me.
We also stopped at a Publix and got some new books to
read (I got the latest Wooden Boat magazine).
The road to the beach is like driving through a tunnel of banyans.
The beach was cool and windy, though not as much as the
day before. The beach here is a dark grey sand, I gathered some for my
collection. We didn’t set up chairs, just walked along the beach and collected
shells and a couple of pieces of driftwood. Jean is starting to think about a
display of some sort.
After that pleasant respite, we plunged into the madness
of the Florida Turnpike. It’s about 135 miles to the Everglades, and from here
it is almost all city traffic. Might as well get it over with as quickly as
possible. There were several backups due to congestion, so it took most of the
rest of the afternoon.
About 3:30 or so, Jean started contacting campgrounds.
Friday and Saturday are the worst times to find a space at a campground, since
they usually fill up for the weekend. She wasn’t having much luck. We would
have preferred one of the campgrounds in the park itself, but we assumed that
they would be fully booked. Jean called anyway, just to say we’d covered all
the ground. To our delight, she scored two nights. We were even given our
choice of campgrounds. We chose Flamingo because it provides electricity and we
might need to use the air conditioner. Especially since the overhead vent fan
stopped working again a couple of days after the technician fixed it.
It appears the busy season for the Everglades was over
for this year. The spaces are large, the day was warm but not hot, and there
was a breeze (no mosquitos!). We were set up and relaxing with our Cuba Librés
by 6:00 o’clock.
Saturday, we relaxed after breakfast and watched a great egret
walking around near the van.
Then we drove the mile or so back to Flamingo. We parked
under the trees and observed a pair of ospreys circling and calling. They flew
away, but we could still hear osprey calls from nearby. We took a few steps
into the grass and looked up. There was an osprey nest in the tree, with three
half-grown chicks sitting on the edge
One of them looked like he was getting his courage up to
try flying.
We watched for a while as they encouraged each other, but
then we pressed on for the Visitor Center. There we learned that the
interesting trees with the big nutlike things in the top are West Indian
Mahogany.
We talked with the folks for a while, bought a field
guide to SE Florida birds, and headed toward the marina. The main building for
the park had been damaged in a couple of hurricanes, and was being restored.
But the marina area was still in good shape. Along the way there were several
people watching (or trying to watch) two or three manatees cavorting near
shore. Unfortunately, they were stirring up so much mud that the water was
opaque and you could only see a part of them when it broke the surface.
At the marina, we bought some lunch and a cold drink. We
ate it next to the canal, where we watched the goings on of the (other)
tourists. There was a crocodile hanging out on the other side of the canal.
Meanwhile the canal itself was a hive of activity with
people in rented canoes and kayaks.
It’s not Florida without pelicans.
After relaxing for a while, we wandered back to the van.
When we got there we saw that the osprey nest was empty. They had all screwed
up their courage and had taken off. We wish them good luck and good fishing.
Before we got into the van, several red-bellied
woodpeckers flew into the tree in front of us and briefly worked it. Must not
have been very good pickings, because the soon flew on.
We drove back to the campground, turned on the air
conditioning, and spent the rest of the rest of the afternoon being lazy.
Next morning, we headed out. The Everglades are called a
“river of grass.” That describes the sawgrass prairie which is most of it.
Basically it was originally a river, 50 miles wide and only a few inches deep
that flowed from Lake Okeechobe to Florida Bay. That was covered in sawgrass.
But there are other areas. Higher ground (even if only a
couple of feet) are called “hammocks” and create a different environment. There
are trees and varied undergrowth. There is a limestone ridge that runs through
the ‘glades. This is in places broken into islands, called “keys.” We walked
out on Long Pine Key. It is a pine forest, with occasional holes in the
limestone caused by acidic water.
On the way out, we stopped by a lake, where we saw our
first alligator for this trip.
There were also a couple more birds.
Since it was Sunday, we figured we would have a better time finding a campground. The only traffic of any note we found (considering it was a Sunday afternoon) was in beautiful downtown Homestead. Much of the drive was on the Tamiami Trail (US-41). This is a highway cut right through the Everglades. It traverses Big Cyprus National Preserve, and has a canal running alongside it for the entire preserve.
There are Mikossuke Indian villages from time to time. We
stopped for lunch at a Mikossuke Restaurant. Expensive, but pleasant eating
outside next to the canal. There was a female boat-tailed grackle busily working
the tables. While we waited for our food, I made contact with the campground at
Collier-Seminole State Park, where we have stayed in the past. I found that
they had space available, but they don’t take reservations. We got there about
4:30 and got a site for two nights. We didn’t set up, we just planted our flag
and headed out for the local Walmart. We got some needed groceries, and filled
up the fuel tank for the first time since we left Stuart, 350 miles ago. All
told, a successful day.
We ran out of water in the evening. Luckily, we still had
some bottled water left over from when we were winterized. So first thing in
the morning, I set up and refilled the water tank. That meant that the holding
tanks were probably full, so we dumped on our way out of the park. Then began a
long search for breakfast. We usually have breakfast in the rig. When we decide
to have breakfast on the road it always seems to take a long time to find a
restaurant. Such was the case today.
After we finally got something to eat, we needed to get
some groceries. We went in to a handy Walmart and Jean went in for a few
groceries while I tried to figure out why her phone didn’t charge last night.
The fuse box in the Mercedes is an exercise in frustration on a large scale.
The fuse that covered the outlet where the charger was plugged in is the
hardest one to get to. Before I attempted that, I got out the multi-tester and
learned to my relief that the outlet had power. Obviously, the charger was no
longer operating. No problem, here we are at a Walmart. After much searching
(where is an employee when you want one?) I found the phone chargers, but the
selection was very limited. The same was true in the grocery section. I picked
what seemed like the best available charger and went back to the rig. It was
the wrong kind. They also didn’t have all the groceries we wanted. We had never
seen such an inadequate Walmart.
We eventually came to a mall, where we went inside and
found a cell phone place that had the right charger (at a much higher price)
and finally got her phone to charge. All told, we got most of what we needed
and still made it to Koreshan State Park by 3:30. We got checked in and did
laundry.
We spotted these flowers there. We don’t have any idea
what they are.
There were also butterflies.
After breakfast in the rig (no orange juice because
Walmart didn’t have the kind we need) we headed out for Sanibel Island for
another beach day. It turned out to be farther than we had calculated, but we
eventually found our way there. The main road up the island was bumper to
bumper (no surprise) and we crawled a long way up the island without finding
any signs for the beach. So we found a road closer to the water, and worked our
way back. We eventually worked our way back to the lighthouse, at the beginning
of the island. There we found parking, and even an empty spot in the space set
aside for RVs.
The beach was only moderately crowded. There were a
couple of people trying to kite sail, but I guess the wind was not strong
enough to pull them up. A big, high-speed tour boat came by just offshore.
After an hour and a half, we both had about as much sun and
heat as we could take and headed back, looking for some lunch. We shopped for a
bit in the oldest shop on the island; small but interesting, as was the old guy
running it. On the way back to the campground, we stopped at a Publix and got
the stuff we couldn’t find at the Walmart.
A couple of nights ago we ran out of water. This night we
didn’t have power to the outlet over the counter. Again, I spent some time
checking things out. I finally found that the convertor-inverter under the
driver’s seat had kicked off. So we didn’t have any power to the outlets served
by the inverter — and the house battery was not being charged. I reset the unit
and we had power back to the outlet, but it took quite a while to get the house
battery fully charged.
Next day (Thursday) we headed up US 41. That led us
through Ft. Meyers, Venice, Sarasota, and Bradenton. All areas with heavy
traffic. During the afternoon, Jean contacted Manatee State Park and learned
that they had a space available, but it was first come, first served only. That
made the struggle with the traffic even more frustrating. We did manage to make
it to the park about 30 miles east of Bradenton in time and got another spot in
the jungle.
One of the things I find fascinating about Florida, is
the variety of trees, including some that look like they were designed by Dr.
Seuss.
Jean contacted her sister-in-law, Chris, and we arranged
to see her next day at her home in Seffner, east of Tampa. We had a very nice
visit, then after lunch the women went shopping, another of Jean’s favorite
things. We finished off the day with strawberry shortcake, even though the
Strawberry Festival is over.
Next day, Saturday, it was time to head out again. Jean
loves the Sponge Docks area of Tarpon Springs, so that was our destination. We
took a wide swing around Tampa. We probably drove farther and longer than a
more direct route, but the traffic was less and the scenery better. Tarpon Springs
on a nice Saturday is tourist central. We found a spot on the parking lot for a
popular restaurant, which solved the problem of where we would have lunch.
First, we walked around a little and went into a couple of shops. There was an
older, wooden sailboat tied up at the bulkhead. It is not clear if it is an
example of an older sponge-fishing boat. I took a picture of it anyway because
I love old wooden sailboats.
Next to the boat is a statue of a hard-hat sponge diver.
That is the business that made Tarpon Springs famous.
We managed to contact a campground that had a space on a
Saturday at a less than outrageous price. (Not a lot less, but less than the
others.) Then we went to the Greek restaurant to have our lunch and get a
parking pass. This was the second place we have seen that puts its Greek salad
on a scoop of potato salad. We decided to eat something else.
In the middle of the hot afternoon, we headed out to find
our campsite. We drove through pleasant residential areas, followed by
industrial areas, followed by country. We arrived at this old, overgrown
campground in the middle of the jungle. It had seen better days, but the utilities
all worked, so we hooked up and turned on the air conditioning.
This marks our turn. From here, every day brings us loser to home. We hope that by the time we get there, it will have warmed up a bit.
This marks our turn. From here, every day brings us loser to home. We hope that by the time we get there, it will have warmed up a bit.
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